Engenho Massangana

Engenho Massangana is a former sugar mill estate (engenho) in Cabo de Santo Agostinho where abolitionist Joaquim Nabuco spent his childhood. Today it is managed by the Joaquim Nabuco Foundation (Fundaj) and welcomes visitors to the manor house (casa-grande) and the chapel. It lies along the PE-060 highway, between Porto de Galinhas and Recife, and makes a short stop for history lovers.

A little history

According to an article by Fundaj researcher Sylvia Couceiro, published in the ANPUH proceedings in 2011, one of the oldest references to the estate dates from 1774. In the 19th century, the property belonged to Ana Rosa Falcão de Carvalho, Joaquim Nabuco’s godmother. The boy was baptized in the São Mateus chapel and stayed in his godparents’ care while his family moved to Rio de Janeiro. He lived on the estate until age 8, when his godmother died, in 1857.

In 1900, Nabuco published the book Minha Formação (My Formation), with the chapter “Massangana”, in which he describes his childhood memories of the estate. According to the same article, the name comes from a word of African origin linked to the confluence of rivers: on the estate’s land, two streams join to form the Suape River.

In 1983, the property was donated to the State of Pernambuco. In 1984, it was listed as a state historic monument, named Parque Nacional da Abolição (National Abolition Park) and handed over to Fundaj on loan. Fundaj began a restoration project in 2008, and the estate reopened to the public in December 2010.

What to see

The complex has two historic buildings, according to Fundaj:

• the manor house (casa-grande), with rooms furnished like late-19th-century manor homes and exhibitions on the estate and on Joaquim Nabuco’s life;
• the São Mateus Chapel, on a rise behind the manor house, where Nabuco was baptized.

In August 2022, after two months closed for repairs, the space reopened with the exhibitions “Jeff Alan: pra deixar de ser ‘pra inglês ver’” and “Masanganu: memórias negras” (Black memories), according to Folha de Pernambuco. Exhibitions change; check the current program.

How to get there from Porto de Galinhas

The estate lies along the PE-060 highway, in Cabo de Santo Agostinho, 48 km from Recife, according to the Fundaj article. The exact distance from Porto de Galinhas was not confirmed by an official source; Cabo lies on the way between Porto de Galinhas and the capital. The article notes that access is quick and easy, unlike other estates in the region served by dirt roads.

When to go and how much time to allow

The visit takes one to two hours. It works as a stop on the way to or from Recife, or on a rainy day. See more ideas in Porto de Galinhas on rainy days.

Practical tips

• Hours: in August 2022, Folha de Pernambuco reported opening hours of Tuesday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., with free admission. This information may have changed. Check with Fundaj before you go.
• The surroundings changed a great deal with the arrival of the Suape Complex, according to the Fundaj article. Visit during the day.
• Respect the chapel and the items on display.

How to fit it into your itinerary

Massangana pairs well with other stops in Cabo de Santo Agostinho, such as Armando de Holanda Cavalcanti Park and Suape Beach, also in the municipality. Colonial history fans can add the Ipojuca historic center, or continue to Recife on the Recife and Olinda day trip.